Fingerboard Deck Buying Guide: Width, Shape, Concave and Kick

Fingerboard Deck Buying Guide: Width, Shape, Concave and Kick

Fingerboard Deck Buying Guide: Width, Shape, Concave and Kick

Choosing the Right Fingerboard Deck Is About More Than Millimetres

Walk into the modern fingerboarding market and one thing becomes immediately obvious:

There are a lot of decks.

32mm.

33mm.

33.3mm.

34mm.

35mm.

36mm.

Different shapes.

Different kicks.

Different concaves.

Different wheelbases.

Different woods.

Different construction methods.

And every company seems to have its own idea of what makes a "perfect" fingerboard.

For someone buying their first serious deck, it can become confusing very quickly.

Does a wider deck automatically mean better control?

Is a deeper concave better?

Should you choose symmetrical kicks?

Does a shorter wheelbase make tricks easier?

And does the extra 1mm between a 33mm and 34mm deck actually matter?

The short answer is:

Yes — but not always in the way you might expect.

Fingerboard decks are highly personal pieces of equipment. What feels perfect to one fingerboarder can feel completely wrong to another.

The trick is understanding what you're actually buying.

WIDTH: 29MM, 32MM, 33MM, 34MM OR 36MM?

Width is probably the first specification most people look at.

And for good reason.

It changes how the board feels beneath your fingers.

But there isn't a single universally correct width.

Around 29–30mm

Narrow decks have traditionally been associated with older-school and technical fingerboarding setups.

They can feel fast and precise, particularly for fingerboarders who prefer smaller movements.

A narrow deck can also provide a very different relationship between your fingers and the edges of the board.

For some people, that makes technical tricks feel natural.

For others, it can feel cramped.

32MM

32mm sits comfortably within the modern fingerboarding mainstream.

It's wide enough to provide a substantial platform without becoming particularly large.

Many fingerboarders find this width versatile for:

  • Technical tricks

  • Flips

  • Manuals

  • Street-style lines

  • Smaller obstacles

If you're moving from a narrow deck toward something more modern, 32mm can be a logical transition.

33MM–33.5MM

This is where things start getting particularly interesting.

A 33mm or 33.3mm deck provides slightly more surface area while still retaining a relatively technical feel.

The difference between 32mm and 33mm might sound insignificant.

Under your fingers, however, that extra millimetre changes the relationship between the board and your fingertips.

A 33mm deck can provide a little more room for catches without feeling dramatically wider.

For many fingerboarders, this becomes a comfortable compromise.

34MM

34mm has become one of the most recognisable modern fingerboard dimensions.

The extra width can provide:

  • More room for finger placement

  • A larger landing platform

  • A stable feeling during catches

  • More visual similarity to contemporary skateboard proportions

  • A substantial feel without becoming excessively wide

However, wider does not automatically mean easier.

A wider deck can also require you to adjust your timing and finger positioning.

If you're accustomed to 32mm, moving immediately to 34mm may initially feel strange.

That's normal.

35–36MM AND BEYOND

Wide decks have become increasingly popular with fingerboarders who prefer a larger platform.

They can provide a particularly stable feeling during:

  • Manuals

  • Grinds

  • Catching flips

  • Bigger obstacles

  • More skateboard-inspired setups

But once again:

Bigger isn't automatically better.

A 36mm deck may feel incredible to one person and oversized to another.

The best width is the one that works with your fingers, technique and preferred style.

DON'T OBSESS OVER ONE MILLIMETRE

Fingerboarding has developed an interesting obsession with exact measurements.

33mm.

33.3mm.

33.5mm.

34mm.

And yes, these measurements matter.

But they shouldn't become more important than the actual shape of the deck.

A well-designed 33mm deck can feel completely different from another company's 33mm deck.

Why?

Because width is only one part of the equation.

SHAPE: THE HIDDEN PERSONALITY OF A DECK

Two decks can have exactly the same width and still feel completely different.

That's because of the shape.

Shape describes the outline of the deck when viewed from above.

You might encounter:

  • Popsicle shapes

  • More symmetrical shapes

  • Wider noses

  • Wider tails

  • More tapered profiles

  • Squarer tails

  • More traditional skateboard-inspired shapes

The shape affects how the board looks, but more importantly, it changes how your fingers interact with it.

NOSE AND TAIL

Not every deck has identical nose and tail dimensions.

Some have a longer nose.

Some have a shorter tail.

Some are relatively symmetrical.

This becomes particularly noticeable when performing tricks where the nose and tail behave differently.

For example, a longer nose can provide more room for certain catches and flick movements.

A shorter tail can make the board feel more compact.

Neither is inherently superior.

They're simply different.

POPSICLE SHAPES

The popsicle shape is familiar to anyone who has spent time around skateboarding.

It generally features a relatively consistent width through much of the deck with rounded ends.

For fingerboarding, this provides a versatile platform.

It's particularly well suited to technical skating and modern street-style setups.

If you're buying your first serious deck and don't know what shape you prefer, a conventional popsicle-style shape is a sensible place to start.

CONCAVE: THE CURVE UNDER YOUR FINGERS

If width is the most obvious specification, concave is arguably one of the most important.

Concave is the curve across the width of the deck.

Look at a fingerboard from the front or back and you can see how the edges sit relative to the centre.

A deck might have:

Low concave

Medium concave

Deep concave

And sometimes companies use their own terminology to describe the exact profile.

LOW CONCAVE

Low-concave decks have a relatively subtle curve.

The board feels flatter beneath your fingers.

This can provide a smooth and predictable feel.

Some fingerboarders prefer low concave because it allows their fingers to move more naturally across the deck.

It can also feel less restrictive.

If you are coming from a very flat setup, low concave is unlikely to feel dramatically different.

MEDIUM CONCAVE

Medium concave is probably one of the safest choices for a fingerboarder who doesn't know exactly what they want.

There's enough curvature to provide a defined finger position without becoming extreme.

It can work well for:

  • Flip tricks

  • Manuals

  • Street skating

  • Technical lines

  • General everyday fingerboarding

A well-designed medium concave is often a good all-rounder.

DEEP CONCAVE

Deep concave creates a more pronounced shape.

Your fingers sit more prominently along the edges of the deck.

This can provide a very locked-in feeling.

For some fingerboarders, deep concave makes flip tricks and catches feel more controlled.

For others, it feels restrictive.

This is where personal preference becomes particularly important.

A deep concave isn't automatically "better."

It simply gives you more pronounced geometry.

KICK: HOW MUCH POP DO YOU WANT?

Kick refers to the upward angle at the nose and tail.

This is another specification that can dramatically influence how a deck feels.

A deck might have:

  • Low kick

  • Medium kick

  • High kick

  • Different nose and tail kick

The kick affects the way the board rotates and how your fingers interact with the ends.

LOW KICK

Lower kicks generally produce a more subtle transition at the ends of the board.

They can feel smooth and predictable.

For some fingerboarders, this creates a very natural feeling for technical skating.

Low kick can also be attractive if you prefer a less aggressive deck profile.

MEDIUM KICK

Medium kick provides a useful balance.

There's enough angle to produce a pronounced pop without making the deck feel extreme.

This is another good option for people looking for an all-purpose deck.

HIGH KICK

High kick produces a much more pronounced nose or tail angle.

This can provide a strong feeling during pops and certain flip tricks.

However, high kick can also require adjustment.

If you've spent years using a low-kick deck, moving to something with significantly more kick can completely change your timing.

NOSE KICK VS TAIL KICK

Here's where deck design becomes even more interesting.

The nose and tail don't necessarily have to be identical.

A deck might feature:

Higher nose + lower tail

or:

Lower nose + higher tail

or:

Similar kicks at both ends

This can influence how the board behaves during different tricks.

The nose is often longer and more pronounced, while the tail may be shorter and steeper.

These differences can give a deck its own personality.

WHEELBASE: THE SPECIFICATION PEOPLE FORGET

Width gets most of the attention.

But wheelbase can have a significant influence on how a deck feels.

Wheelbase is the distance between the trucks.

A shorter wheelbase generally creates a more compact feeling.

A longer wheelbase creates a more stretched-out feeling.

This can affect:

  • Rotation

  • Pop

  • Manuals

  • Flip timing

  • Overall board control

Two 34mm decks can therefore feel completely different if their wheelbases differ significantly.

This is one reason simply buying another deck of the same width doesn't necessarily mean you're buying something that will feel the same.

HOW ALL THE DIMENSIONS WORK TOGETHER

This is the important part.

Don't think about width, shape, concave and kick as separate specifications.

They interact.

Imagine two 34mm decks.

Deck A

34mm

Medium concave

Moderate kick

Medium wheelbase

Deck B

34mm

Deep concave

High kick

Short wheelbase

They are both 34mm.

But they could feel dramatically different.

Deck A might feel relatively neutral and versatile.

Deck B could feel much more aggressive and compact.

That's why buying a deck based purely on width isn't enough.

WOOD MATTERS TOO

The construction of the deck affects how it feels.

Fingerboards can be manufactured using different types of wood and different numbers of veneers.

Common considerations include:

  • Maple

  • Birch

  • Beech

  • Other hardwoods

  • Veneer thickness

  • Number of plies

  • Grain orientation

  • Pressing method

  • Glue

  • Finishing

A deck isn't simply a piece of wood.

Its construction determines how the board responds to pressure.

THREE-PLY, FIVE-PLY AND MORE

The number of veneers influences construction and stiffness.

Five-ply construction is common because it provides a useful balance between strength, weight and flexibility.

Other constructions can produce different characteristics.

More plies don't automatically mean a better deck.

What matters is how the manufacturer combines:

Wood + veneer thickness + grain direction + pressing + shape + finishing.

A beautifully designed five-ply deck can outperform a poorly constructed deck with considerably more layers.

WHY VENEER DIRECTION MATTERS

The direction of the wood grain can affect the structural behaviour of the deck.

Manufacturers can orient veneers differently to balance strength and flex.

This is one of the less visible aspects of fingerboard construction.

You can't necessarily identify it by looking at the finished graphic.

But it can contribute to how a deck feels under your fingers.

WHAT SHOULD BEGINNERS BUY?

If you're buying your first serious fingerboard deck, don't overcomplicate things.

A sensible starting point might be:

32–34mm width

Medium concave

Moderate kick

Conventional popsicle-style shape

Five-ply construction

From there, you can discover what you actually like.

If you eventually realise you want more concave, try it.

If you want a wider deck, move to 35 or 36mm.

If you want more aggressive kicks, experiment.

The first deck doesn't have to be your forever deck.

WHAT SHOULD EXPERIENCED FINGERBOARDERS LOOK FOR?

Once you've used several decks, you can start identifying specific preferences.

Instead of saying:

"I want a better deck."

You can say:

"I want a 34mm deck with medium-deep concave, a slightly longer wheelbase and a higher nose."

That's when buying becomes much more useful.

You're no longer buying based purely on marketing.

You're buying geometry.

DON'T CONFUSE MARKETING WITH GEOMETRY

The fingerboarding industry has become increasingly sophisticated.

Decks are often described using phrases such as:

  • Pro shape

  • Ultimate shape

  • Competition shape

  • Performance concave

  • Technical shape

  • Custom geometry

These descriptions can be useful.

But the actual measurements are more useful.

If a company tells you a deck is "high performance," ask:

How wide is it?

What is the wheelbase?

How much concave does it have?

What are the nose and tail dimensions?

What is the kick like?

What wood is it made from?

Those details tell you far more than marketing language.

DON'T BUY A DECK BECAUSE EVERYONE ELSE HAS IT

Fingerboarding has always had trends.

At different points, particular widths, shapes, wheels and trucks become fashionable.

That doesn't mean they are right for you.

If you love a 32mm deck, use it.

If 36mm feels better, use it.

If you prefer a relatively flat deck, there is nothing wrong with that.

Your setup doesn't need to match someone else's.

Fingerboarding is supposed to be creative.

That includes your equipment.

TRY BEFORE YOU COMPLETELY CHANGE YOUR SETUP

If you're unhappy with your current deck, don't automatically replace everything.

Identify the problem.

Is the deck too narrow?

Too wide?

Too flat?

Too steep?

Too long?

Too short?

Does the nose feel strange?

Does the tail feel uncomfortable?

Does the wheelbase feel wrong?

Once you've identified the issue, changing one component becomes much more useful.

THE PERFECT DECK DOESN'T EXIST

There is no universally perfect fingerboard deck.

There is only the deck that works for you.

One fingerboarder may want:

32mm + low concave + low kick

Another might prefer:

34mm + medium concave + medium kick

Another might want:

36mm + deep concave + high kick

None of those preferences is inherently wrong.

They're simply different approaches to fingerboarding.

THE BUYING CHECKLIST

Before buying a deck, ask yourself:

1. WIDTH

What width are you currently using?

2. SHAPE

Do you prefer a traditional popsicle or something more distinctive?

3. CONCAVE

Do you like a flat, medium or deep feel?

4. KICK

Do you prefer subtle or aggressive kicks?

5. WHEELBASE

Do you want a compact or stretched-out setup?

6. CONSTRUCTION

What wood and ply construction does the deck use?

7. WEIGHT

Does the deck feel appropriately balanced with your trucks and wheels?

8. PURPOSE

Are you primarily doing technical tricks, street lines, manuals, obstacles or simply cruising around a fingerpark?

9. EXPERIENCE

Are you buying something genuinely different, or just another deck with almost identical geometry?

10. PRICE

Are you paying for actual construction and craftsmanship, or primarily for branding?

FINAL THOUGHTS

Buying a fingerboard deck shouldn't be about chasing the biggest number, the most expensive brand or whatever happens to be trending this month.

It should be about understanding what you're putting underneath your fingers.

Width determines the overall platform.

Shape determines the outline and proportions.

Concave determines how your fingers interact with the deck.

Kick influences pop and control.

Wheelbase changes the overall geometry.

Construction determines how the deck is built and how it behaves.

Put all of those together and you get the personality of a fingerboard.

The most expensive deck isn't automatically the best deck.

The widest deck isn't automatically the most stable.

The deepest concave isn't automatically the most technical.

And the latest "pro" shape isn't automatically going to improve your tricks.

The best deck is the one whose geometry works with your hands, your technique and your style of fingerboarding.

So before buying your next deck, stop looking at the graphic for a moment.

Turn it over.

Look at the shape.

Check the dimensions.

Think about the concave.

Look at the kicks.

Consider the wheelbase.

Understand the construction.

Then decide.

Because underneath every graphic, every brand name and every marketing claim is the thing that actually matters:

the shape of the board underneath your fingers.

The Saigon Skateboards Engineered Veneer Fingerboard Deck is one current example of a 33mm x 96mm deck.

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